Ten kilometres north of Preko, and served by six daily buses from the ferry dock, UGLJAN VILLAGE is smaller and much more rustic, and its broad pebbly bay is an attractive spot for swimming. The Ugljan hotel is a fairly standard concrete box, but has a lovely position on Ugljan's harbour, and offers basic but bright en-suite rooms, some with sea-facing balconies; you can rent bikes and boats here too. There are also - at the last count - about nine campsites, mostly small hidden away in private gardens. Also accessible from Preko by bus, the village of MULINE, 4km beyond Ugljan at the northern tip of the island, has three more campsites about a kilometre's walk from the bus stop, set side by side amid picturesque woodland, together with an attractive bay with a quiet beach.

Five kilometres south of Preko on the road to Pasman lies KUKLJICA, a small fishing hamlet on a wide green bay. In season it's normally full of central European tourists, who block-book the bungalow complex on the pine-covered eastern side of the bay, but even so things rarely get too busy. A well-signed path leads from the southern end of Kukljica's harbour to Sabugica Bay on the western edge of the island, where there's a quieter, concreted bathing area with naturist sections on its fringes. The tourist office just behind the harbourside market, has a choice of rooms and apartments. Most package tourists stay at the Zelena Punta complex on the eastern side of the bay, which has cubicle-like bungalows and Swisher apartments sheltering under pines and surrounded by concrete and stone beach areas. Eating and drinking in Kukljica is limited to a couple of cafes and pizzerias on the harbour, or the restaurant at the Zelena Punta.

Kukljica is famous for the festivities marking Our Lady of the Snows (Gospa od sniga) on August 5, which celebrate a "miraculous" summer fall of snow here some four hundred years ago. Every year a statue of the Madonna is carried in a procession of small boats from Kukljica to a seaside chapel lurking behind the headland to the south - a regatta in which the entire village  takes part. Quite why the August snowfall have been adopted as a Catholic miracle is unclear, beside its usefulness in providing the excuse for another feast day dedicated to the Virgin.


Flightnetwork.com -Specializing in Cheap Flights F