South of Sibenik along the Magistrala, the first place you come to is BRODARICA, an undistinguished village which stretches along the road for some 3km. Unlike Sibenik, however, Brodarica can boast a huge stock of private accommodation - and with Sibenik-Brodarica buses shuttling back and forth every 30 minutes, and Sibenik-Split services trundling through roughly every hour, it makes a handy if rather functional base from which to tour the region.
The modest tourist office at the southern end of the village, beside the Magistrala at Krapinjskih Spuivara 1, can provide bus times and details of the ferry to Krapanj. A privately run Turist Biro situated in a roadside kiosk at the northern entrance to Brodarica arranges rooms and apartments; if coming from Sibenik, get off at the first bus stop in the village; coming from Split, get off at the third. The same firm runs the Pansion Zlatna Ribica, down beyond the tourist office at Krapanjskih Spuivara 46, which offers cosy rooms with TV and a top-notch restaurant famous for its superbly grilled fish - it's probably the best (and most expensive) place to eat seafood in the whole Sibenik region.

Brodarica is largely populated by families from Krapanj, a few hundred metres across the water, which has the minor distinction of being the smallest inhabited island in the Adriatic. Boats cross from Brodarica hourly, arriving at a sleepy harbour backed by an enjoyable warren of grey-brown houses. The one bona-fide attraction is the fifteenth-century Franciscan monastery (Franjevači samostan) ten minutes' walk north of the harbour, where a museum contains a couple of Renaissance paintings and a collection of sponges. Diving for sponges used to be the main occupation on Krapanj, although there's not much evidence of this now, save for a couple of shops on the harbour selling spongy souvenirs. Krapanj fills up with Croatian weekenders in July and August, when there's a fair number of sunbathers sprawled out on either side of the quay - the rest of the time women clad in traditional black widows' weeds outnumber other residents four to one. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F