Three buses daily make the short detour inland from Supetar to the village of ŠKRIP, the oldest continually inhabited settlement on Brać Founded by the Illyrians, it's now a sleepy nest of stone houses with heavy stone roof tiles that seem in permanent danger of slipping off, while its hilltop position affords views towards the terraced ridges of the Mosor massif on the mainland. The eastern end of the village is the oldest bit, with a ruined sixteenth-century castle overlooking a smaller fortified stone residence which now serves as the Museum of Brac (Brački muzej; daily 10am-6pm in theory, if not always in practice), displaying a well-preserved Roman relief of Hercules discovered locally, and sundry nineteenth-century agricultural tools. Outside the museum lie the remains of Iron Age walls and a Roman mausoleum, which local legend says contains a wife or daughter of Diocletian.
Skrip is a restful, rustic place to stay: the Konoba Herkules hotel offers simple but bright rooms in a modern three-storey house built in traditional Brač marble, and also has a cafe-restaurant with cypress-shaded terrace and a delicious menu of fresh seafood and Brač lamb. The sea is a thirty-minute downhill walk fro here - either by road to Splitska or by track to Postira, both of which have a few stretches of rocky strand. A better place to swim if you have your own transport is Lovrečna Bay, some 7km east of the Škrip turn-off (it's 4km beyond the next settlement along the coast, Postira), where there's a fine shingle beach overlooked by the remains of an early Christian basilica. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F