Heading south from Sibenik most traffic follows the coastal Magistrala, although there's an inland route which cuts through the and mountains before rejoining the main road at Trogir. It's worth taking if you like spit-roast lamb –a couple of roadside restaurants in the village of Boraja, 15km outside Sibenik, are famous for it.
The small town of PAMOŠTEN, 20km south of Sibenik, is the best place on this part of the coast to rest up and do nothing for a while. Heaped up on an island that's joined to the mainland by a short causeway, it's enchanting when seen from a distance, although on closer inspection most of the houses are twentieth century, and there's nothing of specific interest.There are extensive pebble and rock beaches lapped by ultra-clear water on the wooded promontory to the north of the town, where there are also a number of hotels. Primošten's small bus station is uphill on the landward side of the causeway, a short walk from the tourist office in the small that marks the entrance to the old town. Private rooms, available from Turist Biro at the bus station are probably a better deal than the package-style Zora hotel, a typical 1960s seaside establishment with functional en-suite rooms located on the wooded promontory north of town. Providing a cosy small-hotel alternative is Villa Koša, right on the seashore just east of town at Bana Jelačica 4, offering bright modern rooms ith pine flooring and private bathroom, as well as a handful of swanky apartments.The Adriatik campsite, about 3km north of town on the Magistrala, has good tree cover and an attractive rocky beach.
For food, the Buffet Aligator in a nameless alley just uphill from the tourist office is good for cheap fried-squid snacks; the nearby Gostiona Dalmacija has a more extensive range of seafood risottos, grilled scampi and fish; and there are loads of cafe-pizzerias on the harbour. Wherever you eat, be sure to try the local Primosten wine, Babic – a smooth, dry red. Aurora, 2km from the town centre (follow the Magistrala in the Split direction and then head uphill), is one of the best clubs in central Dalmatia, with a string of European techno and house DJs guesting here over the summer – look out for posters in Primosten, Split and Sibenik.
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