The rest of the old town backs away north from the square in an elegant confusion of twisting lanes and alleys hiding a series of understated architectural  gems. Just uphill the cathedral, the diminutive Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) has a small but striking Romanesque relief of God the Creator above the portal, while just down the steps from here the Church of SS Cosmas and Damian (Crkva svetog Kozme i Damjana) sports a fine barrel-vaulted roof. West of here lies the main "street" in this quarter of town - actually more a flight of steps - the steep Matije Ivamca. The striking roofless palace at its southern end - a grey shell punctuated by delicately carved Gothic windows - is popularly ascribed to the Hektorcivić family, but was more likely commissioned by another noble family, the Uljanik, in 1463, and never finished. Behind it, the Leporini Palace is identifiable by a carving of a rabbit – the family emblem – halfway up the wall. Further up Ivanića lies the Benedictine convent (Benediktinski samostan; Mon–Sat 10am–noon & 5-7pm), founded by the daughter-in-law of the sixteenth-century Hvar poet Hanibal Lucić, which occupies the poet's former town house. Inside there's a small display of devotional paintings, and lace made by the nuns.
Head to the top of Ivanića to find the path which zigzags its way up an agave-covered hillside to the Citadel (June–Sept 8am–midnight), built by the Venetians in the 1550s and strengthened by the Austrians three centuries later. There's a marine archeology collection in one of the halls, with an attractively presented display of amphorae and other sediment-encrusted Greco-Roman drinking vessels, although the real attraction is the view from the citadel's ramparts. Largely intact stretches of defensive wall plunge down the hillside towards the terracotta roofs of Hvar Town below, while beyond stretch the deep green humps of the Pakleni islands just offshore and the bulky grey form of Vis further out to the southwest. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F