HVAR is one of the most hyped of all the Croatian islands. People talk of its verdant colour, fragrant air and mild climate, and at one time local hoteliers even had enough faith in the weather to offer a money-back guarantee if the temperature ever dropped below zero. And Hvar is undeniably beautiful - a slim, green slice of land punctured by jagged inlets and a steep central ridge streaked with the long grey lines of limestone spoil heaps built up over the centuries by farmers attempting to carve out patches of cultivable land.The island's main crop is lavender, which was introduced in the 1930s and covers the island in a spongy grey-blue cloak every spring, before finding its way onto souvenir stalls across the island.
Hvar TownThe best view of HVAR TOWN is from the sea, with its grainy-white and brown scatter of buildings following the contours of the bay, and the green splashes of palms and pines pushing into every crack and cranny. The harbour is alive with a constant hum of activity, whether it be the Rijeka ferry lumbering into port, catamarans buzzing insect-like around the bay, or tiny water taxis ferrying people to bathe on the nearby Pakleni islands. Once you're on terra firma, central Hvar reveals itself as a medieval town full of pedestrianized alleys overlooked by ancient stone houses, providing an elegant backdrop to the main leisure activity: lounging around in cafes and watching the crowds as they shuffle round the harbour. After Dubrovnik, Hvar is probably the most fashionable of the Adriatic resorts among the Croats themselves, and there's something of southern France in the chic korzo that engulfs the town at dusk.