The River Cetina rises just east of Knin and flows down to meet the sea at Omig, carving its way through the karst of the Zagora to produce some spectacular rock formations on the way. The most eye-catching portions are those just outside Omiš, and 23km upstream near Zadvare, although there's no public transport along the valley so you'll need a car to see all the interesting bits. Over the summer, boat trips are advertised on Omiš's quayside, but they only go about 5km upstream before stopping at one of the riverbank restaurants.You can also raft down the upper stretches of the gorge.
Out of Omis, the first few kilometres of the Cetina gorge are truly dramatic, with the mountains pressing in on a narrow winding valley. Further up, the valley floor widens, making room for some swampy stretches of half-sunken deciduous forest. There's a string of good waterside restaurants along this part of the gorge: Kakil Slanica, 4km out of Orris, specializes in freshwater fish as well as zablji kraci (frogs' legs) and the tasty brudet od jegulje (spicy eel soup), while the larger Radmanove Mlinice (boat trips from Orris often end up here), about 1500m further on, is known for its trout, as well as lamb baked ispod peke.
Soon after the Radmanove Mlinice the road turns inland, twisting its way up onto a plateau surrounded by dry hills streaked with scrub. The village of ZADVARJE, at the top of a steep sequence of hairpins, offers views of the most impressive stretch of the gorge. Follow a sign marked Vodopad (Waterfall) in the centre of the village to a scruffy car park on the edge of a cliff, from where there's a view northeast towards a canyon suspended halfway up a rock face, with the river plunging down via two waterfalls to a gorge deep below.The cliffs lining the canyon sprout several more minor waterfalls whenever the local hills fill up with rain.
From Zadvarje, you can either head south to rejoin the Magistrala, or carry on northwards through Šestanovac to a major T-junction 7km beyond at Cista Provo, where you're faced with a choice of routes - eastward to the lakes of Imotski, or westward to TRILJ. This otherwise unassuming rural town offers some of the best accommodation in the area in the shape of the Sveti Mihovil hotel, Bana Jelačića 8, which offers smart rooms with private bathroom and TV, and excellent dining in the attached Šporice restaurant, with Zagora specialities such as arambafid (stuffed cabbage leaves) and the ubiquitous zablji krci. The hotel is an excellent base for adventure tourism, arranging rafting and kayaking on the Cetina, horse-riding in the hills, and mountain bike rental. Beyond Trilj you can continue northwest towards Senj, or head east along the road to Livno in Bosnia-Hercegovina.
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