Immediately to the west of the theatre is another modern square, Ujeviceva poljana, from which Zrinsko-Frankopanska spears north towards the city's modern residential districts. Appearing almost immediately on your left is the  Stari plac, a scruffy sports ground that was home to football Hajduk Split until 1979, when they moved to a brand new stadium up the road. Despite its nondescript appearance, the Stari plac has an almost refi'- gious significance to the locals, and many of the cafes around the ground retain a strong sporting theme, their walls covered with Hajduk memorabilia and TVs permanently tuned to sporting channels. The Stari plac now serves as the ground of Split rugby club - it's only in Split and nearby Makarska that the sport seems to be played with any seriousness in Croatia.
Continue up Frankopanska for ten minutes to reach the Archeological Museum at no. 25 (Arheologki muzej; Tues-Sat 9am-lpm & 5-8pm, Sun 10am-noon), with its. comprehensive displays of Illyrian, Greek, medieval and - particularly - Roman artefacts, mostly plucked from the rich excavation sites at nearby Salona. Exhibits include delicate votive figurines, amulets and jewellery embellished with tiny peep-shows of lewd love-making. Outside, the arcaded courtyard is crammed with a wonderful array of Greek, Roman and early Christian stelae, sarcophagi and decorative sculpture. There are three key exhibits.Two of these, to the left of the entrance, are Salonan sarcophagi from the third century AD: one depicts the Hippolytus and Phaedra legend and is in superb condition - the marble still glistens - while the other is of a Calydonian boar hunt, which in Robert Adam's pictures stood outside Split's baptistry. The third, another sarcophagus, is much later, dating from the fourth century. Known as the "Good Shepherd", it has been the subject of much speculation on account of its mixing up of the Christian motif of the shepherd with pagan symbols of Eros and Hades on its end panels.
Carry on up the road for another five minutes and you'll catch sight of the Poljud Stadium over the brow of the hill. Built for the 1979 Mediterranean Games and now home to Hajduk Split football team it's a strikingly organic structure, the curving roofs of its stands suggesting the sides of a fishing boat's hull or a gargantuan seashell. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F