Neither Sibenik nor Brodarica offer much in the way of beaches, and unless you fancy squeezing onto the horrendously overcrowded strands at nearby Vodice your best bet is to head for the nearby islands of Zlarin and Prvić, where you stand a good chance of finding a secluded bit of rocky shoreline and crystal-clear water. There's no mass tourism on the islands, and precious few cars - merely a succession of orderly and neat little villages kept alive by a trickle of independent tourists and weekending Croatians. The islands are served by the four daily Sibenik-Vodice passenger ferries, which call in at Zlarin before proceeding to Prvić Luka on the southeastern side of Prvić, and Sepurine on the island's northwestern shore. From either Sibenik or Vodice, you could feasibly fit all three villages into a single day's sightseeing, although most visitors favour a more relaxing approach. If you're planning to stay on the islands, note that private rooms on Prvić can be booked in advance through the Turist Biro in Vodice.
The ferry trip from Sibenik is a treat in itself, with the boat ploughing its way through St Anthony's Channel (Kanal svetog Ante), a narrow, cliff-lined waterway which leads from the bay of Sibenik out into the open sea.At the far end of the channel lies the sixteenth-century St Nicholas's Fortress (Tvrdava svetog Nikole), a monumental triangular gun battery placed here by Venetian engineers to keep enemy shipping away from Sibenik's port. Classical music is sometimes performed in summer, with concertgoers ferried to the venue by a flotilla of small boats.

The islands
Twenty-five minutes out from Sibenik, the boat docks at the village of ZLARIN, an attractive huddle of houses at the apex of a broad bay. There's a tourist office on the harbour doling out private rooms, and a brace of shops selling souvenirs fashioned from coral, which existed in some abundance off the shores of Zlarin until being over-harvested in the early twentieth century. Paths on the western side of the will bay take you to an abundance of rocky bathing areas backed by pines. Zlarin's rarely open parish church is famous for housing the body of fourth-century Roman martyr St Fortunatus, a relic obtained for the island by a resourceful local priest in 1781. Every fifty years the remains are paraded through the village on April 23 - the next celebration is due in 2050, so there's no need to pack your bags just yet.
A fifteen-minute ferry journey away, the main settlement of Prvić, PRVUC LUKA, is another unassuming, bay-hugging village with a charmingly soporific atmosphere. The only sight of note is the parish church just up from the harbour, which boasts an extrovert collection of Baroque altarpieces as well as the tomb of Sibenik-born humanist and all-round brainbox Faust Vrančić. Private rooms are available from the sporadically open tourist office, just beyond the church; and the nearby Art Pension has a small stock of cosy en suites.You can bathe on the rocks on either side of the bay.
A single road leads northwest out of Prvić Luka, passing olive groves before arriving after fifteen minutes in ŠEPURINE (which is also the next stop for the Vodice-bound ferry), an attractive fishing village spread beneath a mushroom-topped church tower. Sepurine has the best beach in the area, a wonderful S-bend of shingle stretching away south of the ferry dock. The tourist office, 200m south of the landing stage and housed in the local primary school, will put you in touch with local landladies offering rooms. The nearby Ribarski dvor restaurant offers some of the best grilled fish and shellfish in the region, and has prices to match. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F