The half-abandoned hamlet of KOTLI, 2km northwest of Hum, has become something of a cult destination among summer bathers. It's here that the young River Mirna tumbles through a series of small depressions carved out of the smooth local limestone , creating a sequence of shallow, gurgling pools that some have compared to an open-air Jacuzzi - although low water levels often  leave visitors wondering what all fuss is about. Whether you're in swimming mood or not, it's a fine spot fora riverside ramble. On the far side of the river, Koth itself is a moody clump of farmhouses and barns, half-hidden by runaway vegetation. One of the buildings has been refurbished and turned into a cafe-restaurant, Kotli, which serves up excellent mandtra and other local staples on a shady terrace.

Reached by a minor road that leaves the Glagolitic Alley midway between Roc and Hum, Kodi can also be reached on foot from Buzet (2hr), via a footpath that starts on the south side of town, on the far side of the bridge over the river Mirna – the Buzet tourist office might give you a rough-and-ready hiking map for free. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F