Heading northeast from the Forum along Kandlerova brings you to Pula's simple and spacious Cathedral of St Mary (Katedrala svete Marije; daily 7am-noon & 4-6pm), a compendium of styles with a dignified Renaissance facade

concealing a Romanesque modification of a sixth-century basilica, itself built on the foundations of a Roman temple. Inside, the high altar consists of a third-century marble Roman sarcophagus that's said to have once contained the remains of the eleventh-century Hungarian King Solomon, though there's little else of interest.

From almost anywhere along Kandlerova you can follow streets up to the top of the hill, the site of the original Roman Capitol and now the home of a mossy seventeenth-century fortress (kakel), built by the Venetians in the form of a four-pointed star. It now houses the sparse and uninformative Historical Museum of Istra (Povijesni muzej Istre; summer daily 8am-7pm; winter Mon-Fri 9am-5pm), with scale models of vessels built in local shipyards and a cabinet of Habsburg-era souvenir mugs decorated with the whiskery visage of Emperor Franz Josef and his World War I ally Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany. However, the museum's real highlight is the chance to ramble around the fortress's ramparts, providing commanding views of Pula and its environs - with the cranes of the Uljanik shipyard clustered over to the west, and the spire ofvodnjan church a distant but discernible presence 12km away to the north.

A path leads round the south side of the fortress towards the other side of the town centre, passing the remains of a second-century Roman Theatre en route to the Archeological Museum (Arheologki muzej; May-Sept Mon-Sat 9am-8pm, Sun 10am-3pm; Oct-April Mon-Fri 9am-2pm). The greater part of Pula's movable Roman relics have finished up in this rather old-fashioned museum, with room upon room of unimaginatively displayed ceramics, brooches and oil lamps. Excellent English-language labelling helps to ease your progress from one display case to the next. Highlights include the Roman gravestones arranged in the hallways and stairwells, many of which feature sensitive portraits of the deceased; and the pre-Roman artefacts from the Illyrian settlement of Nesactium - especially the enigmatic, squiggle-embellished tombstones, one of which takes the form of a man riding a horse, upon whose flanks an image of a fertility goddess has been carved. Just by the museum is the second-century AD Porta Gemina, smaller and plainer than the Arch of the Sergians, whose two arches give it its name: the Twin Gate.


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