Northwest of the main square, Trg maršala Tita, the narrow pedestrianized alleyway of Grisia passes through a cute – if relatively unspectacular – Baroque archway before climbing steeply through the heart of the old town to St Euphemia's Church (Crkva svete Eufemije; daily 10am–noon & 4-7pm), which dominates Rovinj from the top of its stumpy peninsula. This eighteenth-century Baroque church is home to the sixth-century sarcophagus of St Euphemia, a Christian from Chalcedon in Asia Minor who was martyred during the reign of Diocletian – she was supposedly thrown to the lions in the Constantinople hippodrome after having survived various tortures, symbolized by the wheel which leans against her flanks. The church itself is a roomy threeaisled basilica with a Baroque altarpiece at the end of each. The altar of St Euphemia is the one furthest to the right, behind which is a small sanctuary containing Euphemia's sarcophagus.A bare stone box, it was brought to Rovinj in 800 AD to keep it safe from the Iconoclasts, who were in the process of smashing up all the relics they could find in Constantinople. A seventeenth-century statue of the saint tops the church's 58-metre-high tower, said to be modelled on that of St Mark's in Venice. 

It's below the church, and on either side of Grisia, that Rovinj's most atmospheric streets are to be found – narrow, cobbled alleyways packed with tiny craft shops, overlooked by high shuttered windows, spindly TV aerials and the thin, thrusting chimneys that have become something of a Rovinj trademark. Pressure on housing, so it's said, forced married sons to set up home in a spare room of their parents' house – before long every house in town accommodated several families, each with its own hearth and chimney.

Back on Trg maršala Tita, the Town Museum at no. 11 (Zavičajni muzej Rovinj; summer Mon–Sat 9am-12.30pm & 6-9pm; winter Tues–Sat 10.30am-1.30pm) has various archeological oddments, antique furniture and fine art. Among the numerous Madonna and Childs are several imposing Baroque works by anonymous Venetian artists, including a dignified Deposition of St Sebastian, and some older, Byzantine-influenced works, including the colourful pageantry of Bonifazio de Pirati's Adoration of the Magi (1430) and Pietro Mera's more subdued Christ Crowned with Thorns (early sixteenth century).

At its northern end, Trg maršala Tita opens out onto Trg Valdibora, site of a small fruit-and-vegetable market.A road leads east from here along the waterfront to the Marine Biological Institute at Obala Giordano Paliaga 5, home to an aquarium (Easter–Oct daily 9am-8pm) featuring tanks of Adriatic marine life and flora. Finally, just opposite the bus station, stands the often overlooked twelfth-century octagonal baptistry of the Holy Trinity Church (Crkva svetog Trojstva), a simple, functional structure that is rarely open.


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