From the western side of Maksimir park, Bukovačka cesta threads its way uphill through increasingly affluent hillside residential districts before arriving at Remete, a village suburb some 6km north of the city centre. Crouched in a grassy vale below Mt Medvednica, the village was chosen by Pauline monks as the site of a monastery in the thirteenth century, and, despite the dissolution of the order in the 1790s, the monastery's Church of St Mary (Crkva svete Marije) remains an important focus for pilgrims on Marian feast days - especially August 15 (Assumption) and September 8 (Birth of theVirgin). Essentially a gothic structure with a tacked-on Baroque facade, the church maintains its popularity with the faithful thanks to the presence on the high altar of a tender fifteenth-century wooden statue of the Madonna, to which miracle-working properties are ascribed. More powerful still are the the richly coloured Baroque frescoes which swirl around the ceiling, the likely work of Ivan Ranger, the widely travelled painter-monk from Lepoglava. Outside stands a pillar topped with a suitably ascetic-looking statue of Simeon the Stylite, a fifth-century saint who spent 36 years living on top of a pole in the Syrian desert. You can get to Remete on bus #226 from either Kaptol or Bukovačka cesta. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F