Zagreb's sightseeing potential is largely exhausted once you've covered the compact centre, although there are a few worthwhile trips into the suburbs –all of which are easily accessible by tram or bus.

Maksimir, Lake Jarun and Mirogoj Cemetery are the park-like expanses to aim for if you want a break from the downtown streets, while the peaceful village-suburb of Remete provides the setting for a celebrated pilgrimage church.Western Zagreb is particularly devoid of interest, although those travelling along Ilica en route to the Cernomerec tram terminal will pass one of Zagreb's more poignant sights, the Zid boll (Wall of Pain). Running along the pavement outside the (now empty) United Nations compound 3km west of the centre, this is a low, ad hoc structure, each brick of which is inscribed with the name of a casualty from the siege of Vukovar in 1991. Largely the work of refugees from Vukovar and their relatives (many of whom still come here to lay Wall flowers or light candles), the is intended to act as both a memorial to the victims and a reminder of the international community's failure to take decisive action at the time. There's currently much discussion on whether to leave the Zid bli here or move it to a new location – it's likely that a small section of it will be preserved in situ whatever happens to the rest.


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