altSouth of the Mimara Museum, Savska cesta heads southwest towards the concrete-and-steel confections of twentieth-century Zagreb, passing the Technical Museum (Tehnički muzej; Tues-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat & Sun 9am-fpm), one of the city's more entertaining collections, at no. 18. The displays begin with a set of historic fire engines, followed by a jumble of wooden watermills and steam turbines designed to illustrate the harnessing of natural power sources. Steam- and diesel-powered machinery comes next: the line-up of disembodied plane engines (including a Rolls-Royce Merlin II from 1938, used to power the Spitfire aircraft) has the abstract dignity of a sculpture gallery. A central hall holds buses, cars, trams and aeroplanes, as well as a World War II Italian submarine captured by the Partisans in 1943 and drafted into the Yugoslav navy under the name MaRan ("The Nipper"). Other attractions include a small planetarium with regular showings a reconstruction of a mine shaft (entrance by guided tour only: Tues-Fri 3pm, Sat 1 lam); and the reconstructed laboratory of physicist Nikola Tesla (entrance by guided tour only: Tues-Fri 3.30pm, Sat 11.30am), who pioneered the use of alternating current and developed dynamos, transformers and lighting systems for the Westinghouse company in the USA. Perhaps it's because Tesla was a Serb from the ethnically mixed province of Lika that today's Croatian establishment seems unsure whether or not to enshrine him as their greatest ever scientist. Over the road lies the Student Centre (Studentski centar), where a theatre and cinema occupy the pavilions of the former Zagreb Fair. Further south along Savska, trams rattle on towards the River Sava, passing an important symbol of Zagreb en route: the cylindrical Cibona Tower, a 1980s office block whose highly reflective surface exudes a silvery, futuristic haughtiness. Zagreb's  main basketball (also called Cibona) play immediately next door in a similarly circular structure, named the Dražen Petrović Basketball Centre after the player whose career was cut short by a fatal car crash in 1993. The best European player of his generation, Petrović led Cibona to the European championships in 1985 and 1986, and went on to play for Real Madrid, Portland and the New Jersey Nets – before posthumously making it into the NBA's Hall of Fame in 2002. There are plans for a Dražen Petrovic museum here in the future; in the meantime, head for the next-door Amadeus cafe, which is stuffed with photographs of the man in action. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F