altEast of Zrinjevac and Strossmayerov trg, all roads seem ultimately to lead to Trg Žrtava fagizma (Victims of Fascism Square), a large traffic roundabout which was renamed Trg hrvatskih velikana (Square of Great Croatians) in 1990 - until anti-fascist groups complained vociferously enough to have the old name returned. The square is dominated by the House of Croatian Artists (Dom hrvatskih likovnih umjetnika; Mon 2-7pm,Tues-Sun I lam-7pm; prices depend on what's on), an arresting circular pavilion designed as an art gallery by Meštrovic in the 1930s, but converted into a mosque in August 1944 by the NDH in an attempt to cultivate Bosnian Muslim support for their pro-Nazi regime. It's still colloquially referred to as the dzamija (mosque), though its tree minarets were demolished in 1947, after which it was press-ganged into vise as a museum of the socialist revolution. The long, curving galleries inside me now an atmospheric venue for changing displays of contemporary painting and sculpture. -Specializing in Cheap Flights F